Port Ellen Distillery
Port Ellen, a distillery gone but not forgotten.
Widely recognized for its majestic cliffs, impressive wildlife but also its whisky production, the charming island of Islay is a true paradise for Scotch lovers. Since its closure, the Port Ellen distillery, one of the most discreet in the region, has become one of the most iconic in the world.
In 1825, Alexander Kerr Mackay founded Port Ellen on the south coast of Islay, in an old malt mill that initially provided supplies to illegal distilleries on the Oa Peninsula. However, Alexander went bankrupt only a few months after the distillery opened and control passed to his friends: John Morrison, Patrick Thomson and George MacLennan. It was then taken over in 1836 by John Ramsay, Morrison's 21-year-old cousin.
When he first came to Islay in 1833, John was managing the family business and investments to minimize the impact of the distillery's difficulties. Recognizing the potential of Port Ellen, he decided to train as a distiller and partnered with Walter Frederick, the "Laird" of Islay, before obtaining the lease of the distillery.
Under John Ramsay's leadership, Port Ellen became a center of innovation and development for the whiskey industry. The very first spirit locker was installed on the island in the 1820's, and it is thanks to him that it has become the essential tool used by all malt distilleries in Scotland today. A true pioneer in the transatlantic spirits trade, the establishment of a ferry service by Ramsay between Islay and Glasgow, with Port Ellen as the main ferry terminal, facilitated the trade and development of the whisky industry on Islay.
After John Ramsay's death in 1892, his wife inherited Port Ellen and managed it until her own death in 1906. Iain Ramsay then took over from his mother as owner and manager of Port Ellen.
The counterpoint between the Pattison whisky crisis, World War I and the economic depression will force Iain to sell the distillery in 1920, to Port Ellen Distillery Co. Ltd, a partnership between blenders James Buchanan and John Dewar. They later merged with the Distillers Company Limited (DCL), giving it the ownership of the business.
However, due to prohibition and the economic depression that affected the world whisky market, DCL closed and suspended Port Ellen in 1930.
For the next 37 years, Port Ellen remained silent despite the continued use of the site's maltings and warehouses by its owner. In response to the growing demand for peated whisky, the distillery was revived in 1966 through a modernization and rebuilding program. This initiative allowed the installation of two additional stills, which doubled the distillery's production to 1.7 million liters of alcohol when it reopened in April 1967. Unfortunately, Port Ellen was once again challenged by the "Whisky Loch" in the 80's: since blenders only needed a small amount of peated malt to produce whisky blends, DCL considered that its three other distilleries located on the island of Islay were sufficient. As a result, the Port Ellen distillery was deemed redundant and was closed in May 1983, followed by the demolition of its stills and storage facilities. The remaining buildings were reallocated to maltings.
Nevertheless, the jobs of the malting factories in the village of Port Ellen have been protected thanks to an agreement called the Islay Distillers Concordat of 1987. It was concluded between the active distilleries of Islay and Jura, who committed themselves to buy a part of their malted barley from Port Ellen, thus ensuring their survival.
In 1992, Port Ellen's distilling license was revoked, suggesting that this distillery was destined to join the many other abandoned distilleries in Scotland. Today it is one of the "ghost" distilleries of the country, those which have ceased their production but whose whiskies are still present in the remaining stocks and bottles.
With the rising popularity and demand for peated and smoked whiskies around the world, Port Ellen's decreasing stock and increasing rarity make it a coveted item for enthusiasts and collectors. Among Islay Scotches, Port Ellen's smoky character combines oily maritime notes with a citric core, giving it a slightly austere nature.
The first Port Ellen Single Malt was introduced as part of the "Rare Malts" selection of whiskies produced in the silent distilleries, with a 20-Year-Old expression in 1998, and then as a 22-Year-Old bottling in 2000. A year later, a raw alcohol bottling of Port Ellen was one of the first single malts to be released as part of Diageo's annual Special Releases, with an expression of Port Ellen being introduced each year thereafter until 2017.
For the 12th edition of the cult distillery's whisky, it is a 32-year-old Single Malt that has been honored: the 12th Release, produced in 1979. It delivers a floral fragrance with notes of apricot and pear. Peat lingers in the background.
Then in 2016, it is the arrival of one of the flagship bottles of Diageo Special Releases: the Port Ellen Special Release 2016 of 1978, a 37 years old, which is distinguished by its surprising aromas of tart apple, with a strong dose of spices, nutmeg and white pepper. The finish reveals notes of leather, toffee and blackcurrant, revealing a whisky that is as complex as it is balanced. Produced in only 2940 copies, it is one of the rarest and most exclusive of the distillery.
In the 2000s, the Port Ellen Sherry Cask 1981 appeared on the market. It is characterized by its campfire, burnt caramel, flamed pineapple and herbs of Provence flavors. Its vintage-looking bottle reinforces the exclusive character of this whisky, which was produced in 210 bottles only.
On October 9, 2017, Diageo unveiled plans to reopen the doors of the iconic Port Ellen distillery. This reopening, scheduled for 2023, suggests that the first release could be an expression of the 12-year-old single malt. Between now and the creation of a new Port Ellen whisky, it is likely that the last remaining stocks will be bottled as limited editions, marking the beginning of a new chapter in the history of Port Ellen distillery.
PORT ELLEN - Sherry Cask - 18 years - 1981 - Bottle of 70 cl
PORT ELLEN - 12th Release - 32 years - 1979 - Bottle of 70 cl
PORT ELLEN - Special Release 2016 - 37 years - 1978 - Bottle of 70 cl
PORT ELLEN - Special Release 2017 - 37 years - 1978 - Bottle of 70 cl
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